To Thi Hoan Temple – shrine to the “Lady To Thi” of Ha Lang
“Dong Dang has Ky Lua Street / And Lady To Thi, and Tam Thanh Pagoda.” This familiar folk verse is associated with the stone statue of Lady To Thi in Lang Son. Few people know, however, that in the remote border region of Ha Lang, Cao Bang, there is a temple dedicated to a woman from the To family whom ancient records identify as the legendary Lady To Thi. This is To Thi Hoan Temple, recently restored and officially reopened in April 2026.
Where is the temple?
To Thi Hoan Temple (also known as To Thi Hue Temple) stands at the foot of Xuan Son Mountain, locally called Phia Roan Mountain, in Dong Tam Hamlet, Ly Quoc Commune. It was formerly in Ban Lung Hamlet, Dong Loan Commune, Ha Lang District.
The temple is part of the “Experience Local Culture in a Fairytale Land” route in the UNESCO Global Geopark Non Nuoc Cao Bang.
To Thi Hue in ancient records
According to the book “Cao Bang Province,” during the Later Le dynasty, in the reign of Le Du Tong, the 14th year of Vinh Thinh (1718), a military official surnamed To traveled from the capital to suppress an uprising and stationed his troops in Ha Lang District. He took a woman from Dong Loan Commune, named Thi De, as a concubine. At the age of 26, she gave birth to a daughter, To Thi Hue, who was exceptionally intelligent and capable, and renowned for her extraordinary beauty.
In the second year of Long Duc (1733), during the reign of Le Thuan Tong, To Thi Hue was brought to the palace as a consort and became greatly beloved by the king. Just over a year later, she was granted permission to visit her hometown. While passing through Khau Lu (Lang Son), she heard that King Le had died. She climbed a mountain and gazed toward the capital for a long time before turning to stone.
After her death, local people built a temple at the foot of Xuan Son Mountain in Dong Loan Commune to worship her. The Le court bestowed on her the title “To Thi Phuc Than.”
According to Cao Bang Newspaper, folk tales and ancient records confirm that To Thi Hue was To Thi Hoan of Dong Loan Commune, and that Xuan Son Mountain is today’s Phia Roan Mountain. This is considered another version of the Lady To Thi legend, a symbol of Vietnamese women’s loyalty and devotion.
The legend of the people of Dong Loan
Alongside the historical accounts, people in Dong Loan have passed down their own stories about Lady To Thi.
Legend has it that one Mid-Autumn Festival night, Thi De was sitting on the raised floor of her house, enjoying the cool air and admiring the moon. When she glanced toward Phia Roan Mountain behind the house, she saw a brilliant light and heard a bird call three times: “Hoan, Hoan, Hoan.”
As time passed, the banyan tree that Lady To Thi and her mother had planted years earlier never grew, and the two of them never returned. Local people built a temple at the foot of Phia Roan Mountain to honor her. The story of Lady To Thi’s temple has been told from one generation to the next.
The temple through the years
The original temple stood at the foot of Phia Roan Mountain. Built of stone, it was roofed with yin-yang tiles. On January 13, 2011, the Cao Bang Provincial People’s Committee issued Decision No. 64/QD-UBND, recognizing To Thi Hoan Temple as a provincial-level historical and cultural site.
Over time, the temple fell into disrepair. Restoration work began in 2025, with a total budget of VND 6 billion from the local government. The project included a three-bay temple with a yin-yang tile roof, ground leveling, retaining walls, the main temple courtyard, access roads, and steps leading up to the temple. Following the introduction of the two-tier local government model, the project was handed over to Ly Quoc Commune for completion.
The Vietnam To Family Council also contributed VND 520 million to complete the worship hall’s furnishings, including horizontal lacquered boards, parallel couplets, carved screen doors, an altar table, worship statues, ceramic ritual items, and a stone incense burner.
On April 13, 2026, the Ly Quoc Commune People’s Committee held the opening ceremony for To Thi Hoan Temple. Attendees included representatives from government departments and agencies, the Vietnam To Family Council, the Cao Bang To family, as well as large numbers of local residents and visitors.
Visiting the temple
At To Thi Hoan Temple, you can:
- Offer incense in honor of To Thi Phuc Than, the legendary woman remembered for her unwavering devotion.
- Take in views of Phia Roan Mountain and the peaceful surroundings of Dong Tam Hamlet.
- Hear local stories about Lady To Thi, including tales not found in history books.
In particular, if you have visited To Thi Mountain in Lang Son, a visit to the temple in Ha Lang will give you a different, fuller perspective on this familiar story: she turned to stone in Lang Son, while the temple dedicated to her stands in her maternal homeland of Cao Bang.
What to See Around Ha Lang
- Doi Cave: a nearby attraction that you can visit on the same trip.
- Ba Quang Burnt Grass Hill (Vinh Quy Commune): a golden-orange grassland in the dry grass season.
- Sung Phuc Pagoda (Thanh Nhat): a pagoda dating back to the reign of King Tran Nhan Tong.
- Be Van Dan Martyrs Memorial, Khau Luong Pass and Thoong Rung Waterfall along National Highway 4A.
Temple Visit Tips
- Dress respectfully and help preserve the temple’s peaceful atmosphere.
- Wear suitable shoes, as steps lead up to the temple.
- Do not litter; please help protect the heritage site.
- Ask the temple caretaker before photographing the altar.
Final Thoughts
To Thi Hoan Temple brings together historical records and legend, Lang Son and Cao Bang, the imperial consort of the To family and the figure of To Thi, who waited faithfully until she turned to stone. Now beautifully restored, the temple at the foot of Phia Roan Mountain awaits visitors who wish to offer incense and hear once more the story of a Ha Lang woman’s enduring devotion.
