Bach Linh Temple – the Ancient Shrine Honoring “A Hundred Sacred Spirits” in Quang Uyen
At the end of Quang Uyen’s old quarter, at the foot of Coc Bo limestone mountain, stands an ancient temple with the look of a lowland pagoda, its gate molded with a coiling dragon. Locals call it Bach Linh Temple, or Bach Linh Pagoda. Every early spring, dragon and lion dance troupes and palanquin processions set off from here across the whole town, opening the Firecracker Head-Grabbing Festival, a national intangible cultural heritage. If you’re visiting Quang Uyen, Bach Linh Temple is the first stop you shouldn’t miss.
Where is the temple?
Bach Linh Temple is located in Pho Cu residential area, now part of Quang Uyen Commune (formerly Quang Uyen Town). The temple sits at the foot of Coc Bo limestone mountain, just over 200m from Quang Uyen Market, making it easy to find.
Honoring “a hundred sacred spirits”
The name Bach Linh means “a hundred sacred spirits.” The temple honors 100 sacred spirits of various creatures, led by the dragon, foremost among the Four Sacred Creatures—Dragon, Unicorn, Turtle, and Phoenix—symbols of nobility and mystery.
This is a rare form of belief. Rather than worshipping a single deity or historical figure, Bach Linh Temple reflects the local people’s faith in the protective power of all sacred creatures, especially the dragon, bringer of rain for bountiful harvests.
A “lowland pagoda” amid the mountains
The temple has stood for over a hundred years, and no one can recall exactly when it was built. It was originally made of wood. In the sixth year of the Khai Dinh era, the district magistrate of Quang Uyen, Ha Luong Tin, a native of Thai Binh, hired craftsmen from the lowlands to restore and rebuild it in brick.
As a result, the temple bears Nguyen-era architecture, with wooden columns, curved tile roofing, and the overall look of a lowland pagoda, comprising a triple gate, courtyard, front hall, and rear sanctuary. Amid the mountains of Cao Bang, this is quite a distinctive structure.
Details worth a closer look:
- The temple gate: inscribed with three characters reading “Bach Linh Temple,” decorated with a molded coiling dragon, and built of thick brick. The gate features a carved dragon holding a pearl in its mouth, flanked by a phoenix, with dragons and unicorns gathered together.
- The front hall: at its center is a wooden door 1.6m wide and 2.2m high, with three altars inside.
A witness to two resistance wars
Bach Linh Temple is more than just a spiritual site. During the resistance wars against France and the United States, it served as a food depot, a weapons store, and a classroom. The ancient temple stood alongside the people of Quang Uyen through their hardest years.
In 2003, Bach Linh Temple was recognized as a Provincial Historical-Cultural Heritage Site.
The soul of the Firecracker Head-Grabbing Festival
Bach Linh Temple is closely tied to the Firecracker Festival, also known as the Firecracker Head-Grabbing Festival, held in Quang Uyen. The festival runs from the 30th day of the first lunar month (or the 29th in a short month) through the 2nd day of the second lunar month. In 2020, it was recognized as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage.
The festival opens with the Dragon Eye-Opening Purification Ritual at Coc Chu spring, right near the temple. The ceremony is led by a respected elder with high standing in the community and a large, thriving family. Afterward, the dragon, unicorn, and palanquin procession travel to Bach Linh Temple, Nung Tri Cao Temple, Tran Hung Dao Temple, and Thien Phuc Pagoda to officially open the festival.
On the afternoon of the 1st day of the second lunar month, the organizing committee and locals come to the temple to make offerings, praying for prosperity for every household in the new year. The 2nd day of the second lunar month marks the festival’s climax, with the lively firecracker head-grabbing contest.
If you visit Quang Uyen during this time, you’ll see that Bach Linh Temple is truly the “heart” of the whole festival season.
Nearby attractions
Around Bach Linh Temple, right within Quang Uyen Commune, you can also visit:
Bach Linh Temple- Nung Tri Cao Temple: the site of the troop-rewarding ceremony during the Firecracker Head Contest Festival.
- Tran Hung Dao Temple and Thien Phuc Pagoda: both lie along the palanquin procession route at the start of spring.
- Coc Chu Spring: where the “dragon eye-opening” purification rite is held.
Notes for Visiting the Temple
- Dress modestly and keep the solemn atmosphere of the site.
- Ask the caretaker’s permission before photographing the altar.
- During festival time it gets very crowded, so arrive early and park some distance away.
- Do not touch the ancient carvings on the temple gate.
Small and unassuming at the foot of Coc Bo Mountain, Bach Linh Temple holds layers of history within its modest walls: a belief in a hundred sacred spirits, architectural touches from the lowlands set amid the mountains, memories of the resistance war years, and a festival now recognized as a national heritage. When you visit Quang Uyen, start here. You’ll soon understand why the local people entrust their entire spring to this ancient temple.
