Pha Hung Panorama – Take in Phia Thap Incense Village from Above
At the foot of Pha Hung Mountain, Phia Thap Incense Village lies peacefully in a valley, its traditional stilt houses topped with yin-yang tiles and colorful bundles of incense drying along the lanes. To appreciate the full beauty of this century-old village, head uphill. Pha Hung Panorama is a viewpoint on the mountainside beside the village, where you can take in the village, valley and surrounding mountains, watch the sun set or catch a sea of clouds in the early morning.
Where Is Pha Hung Panorama?
The viewpoint is on Pha Hung Mountain, in Hanh Phuc Commune, right beside Phia Thap Incense Village. Phia Thap Village was formerly part of Phuc Sen Commune (former Quang Hoa District) and is now in Quoc Tuan Hamlet, Quang Uyen Commune. The village sits beside National Highway 3, tucked beneath Pha Hung Mountain.
On Google Maps, the viewpoint is listed as “Pha Hung Panorama.” Please note: the road up to the viewpoint is fairly new and has few signs. When you reach Phia Thap Village, ask a local resident or your homestay host for directions.
What Can You See from Pha Hung Panorama?
Panoramic Views of Phia Thap Incense Village
From above, Phia Thap Village unfolds like a painting: traditional stilt houses with yin-yang tile roofs stand close together, surrounded by cornfields and rice paddies, while National Highway 3 winds through the landscape. On sunny days, residents lay incense out to dry along the lanes and fields, creating splashes of color rarely seen elsewhere.
Sunset over the Valley
Late afternoon is the best time to visit Pha Hung. As the sun sinks behind the mountain range, golden light falls across the valley and the rooftops of the incense village, while evening cooking smoke begins to rise. It’s a peaceful moment you’ll want to remember.
Cloud Hunting at Dawn
On chilly mornings, especially in winter and during seasonal transitions, mist gathering in the valley can form a sea of clouds over the village. From Pha Hung, you’ll see mountain peaks rising above the white blanket. Set out before sunrise, as the clouds are often at their best for only a short time before the sun burns them away.
Phia Thap Incense Village – At the Foot of the Mountain
After admiring the view from above, head down to the village to discover what makes Phia Thap so special.
A Century-Old Craft Village of the Nung An
Phia Thap is a traditional incense-making village of the Nung An people with a history spanning more than 100 years. It is recognized as one of Cao Bang Province’s traditional craft villages. More than 50 households still make incense by hand, and nearly everyone in the village knows the craft.
Stilt houses here have a small floor set aside for incense making. Everyone from children to older residents takes part in the production process.
Incense Made from Natural Ingredients
Phia Thap incense is prized for its all-natural ingredients, with no chemicals used:
- The incense sticks are made from mai wood, locally known as may muoi, which is straight, flexible and easy to light.
- Bau Hat leaves, which grow naturally on rocky cliffs, are the main ingredient. They are dried and ground into a powder.
- The sticks are dipped in water, rolled in Bau Hat leaf powder and then in sawdust. The process is repeated until they reach the desired thickness. This is the most skill-intensive step.
- The incense is naturally sun-dried; on a hot, sunny day, it takes just one day to dry.
Community-Based Tourism
Since 2016, Phia Thap has been one of seven villages in Cao Bang Province to receive investment in community-based tourism. Homestays here preserve the traditional character of the Nung An people. Visitors can try their hand at making incense, sample local dishes and buy local OCOP products.
Phia Thap is one of Cao Bang’s most popular destinations for international visitors seeking an authentic local experience.
Suggested One-Day Itinerary
- Early morning: Head up to Pha Hung Panorama to watch the sunrise and look for a sea of clouds.
- Morning: Visit Phia Thap Village and try making incense alongside local residents.
- Lunch: Enjoy a meal at a homestay and sample Nung An cuisine.
- Afternoon: Visit the Nung Tri Cao Temple and Bach Linh Shrine in the center of Quang Uyen Commune.
- Late afternoon: Return to Pha Hung to watch the sunset over the incense-making village.
If you have time, stay overnight at a homestay to enjoy the sunset and catch the clouds the following morning.
Tips for Visiting Pha Hung Panorama
- Ask local residents for directions before setting off, as the trail is not well signposted.
- Wear shoes with good grip and comfortable, practical clothing.
- Bring a flashlight if you plan to look for clouds early in the morning or hike down after sunset.
- Bring warm layers as the mountain can be quite cold in the early morning and evening.
- Keep away from the edge when taking photos.
- Take your rubbish back down the mountain to help preserve the landscape.
- Respect the incense-making community: Do not step on incense laid out to dry, and ask permission before photographing residents.
Final Thoughts
Pha Hung Panorama offers a rare view of Phia Thap’s incense-making village: the entire century-old settlement fits within your field of view, sometimes submerged in a sea of morning clouds, sometimes glowing gold in the afternoon sun. Climb the mountain for the view, then head down to the village to learn about local life—the best way to experience the homeland of the Nung An people.
