An Lai Check-In – A Winding Road at the Foot of Ma Phuc Pass
Along National Highway 3, heading east from Cao Bang City, many travelers are surprised to find themselves pulling over at a gently curving stretch of road between limestone mountains and fields. This is the An Lai bypass, just below Ma Phuc Pass, and a familiar check-in spot for road trippers. An Lai is known not only for its picture-perfect road, but also for its rustic highland market, tasty arrowroot vermicelli and a legend associated with Nung Tri Cao.
Where Is An Lai?
An Lai is a hamlet in Nguyen Hue Commune (formerly Hoa An District), on National Highway 3, about 15 km from the center of Cao Bang. The check-in spot is a one-way stretch of the An Lai bypass at the foot of Ma Phuc Pass.
Ma Phuc Pass marks the boundary between Nguyen Hue Commune and Tra Linh Commune. An Lai is therefore a natural stop on the way to eastern Cao Bang.
The Legend of An Lai Mountain and Ma Phuc Pass
The name An Lai is tied to an intriguing story. Legend has it that in the mid-11th century, the Tay leader Nung Tri Cao led his people in resistance against the Song army. Returning from a border patrol one day, he encountered a steep, winding pass blocking his way. His horse buckled and could go no farther. From then on, the mountain range was called An Lai, while the pass was named Ma Phuc, meaning “kneeling horse.”
Another explanation for the pass’s name is that two towering limestone formations on either side of the highway seem to face each other like two horses lying prostrate.
Whichever version you believe, when you stand in An Lai and look up at the hairpin bends of Ma Phuc Pass, it’s easy to imagine why the horse in the legend had to stop.
Things to See and Do in An Lai
The An Lai Bypass
This is An Lai’s star attraction. The one-way road winds gracefully between mountains and fields, looking like a ribbon from above. Visitors praise its winding route and beautiful scenery.
Featured image of An Lai Check-In in Nguyen Hue Commune
Photo tip: Find a safe spot above the road and point your camera toward the bends to capture the road’s curves. Early morning mist and late afternoon sunlight slanting across the limestone mountains make for the best shots.
The Seven Bends of Ma Phuc Pass
From An Lai, you can tackle 620-meter-high Ma Phuc Pass, climbing seven bends to the summit. At the top is Coc Phat junction, where Provincial Road 205 begins its route to Tra Linh Border Gate. The pass stretches for about 3.5 km, with several scenic viewpoints overlooking the An Lai Valley.
An Lai Market Day
If your visit coincides with market day, don’t miss An Lai Market. It takes place every five days, on lunar dates ending in 3 or 8 (the 3rd, 8th, 13th, 18th, 23rd and 28th). It is one of the largest markets in the Hoa An area.
The market is more than a place to shop; it’s also where people from different ethnic communities meet and catch up. One lovely thing about An Lai is that sellers don’t inflate their prices: the price is the price. You can enjoy roast pork prepared right at the market and see plenty of sugarcane, a fixture on Cao Bang ancestral altars during death anniversaries and Tet.
An Lai Arrowroot Vermicelli Village
An Lai is also known for making arrowroot vermicelli. Along the road, you’ll see producers and cooperatives making the noodles. Visitors who buy them here praise their chewy texture, delicious taste and cleanliness. Visit during the dry season and you may see the bright white noodles laid out to dry—a scene well worth photographing.
A packet of An Lai arrowroot vermicelli makes a small but meaningful souvenir to take home.
Plan Your Itinerary
An Lai lies right on the route to eastern Cao Bang, making it easy to combine with other destinations:
- Thang Hen Lake: From the top of Ma Phuc Pass, turn onto Provincial Road 205. After just over 10 km, you’ll reach a “hidden paradise” of 36 emerald-green lakes.
- Long Vuong Temple (Thong Hue): An old temple beside the Bac Vong River, associated with a lantern festival held in leap years.
- Temple of Duc Thanh Pho (Trung Khanh): A temple dedicated to Hung Hien Dai Vuong Tran Quoc Uat in the center of Trung Khanh.
Tips for Your Visit
- Put safety first: The An Lai bypass is a one-way stretch of highway used by many trucks and coaches. Don’t stop in the road or stand in the traffic lane to take photos. Pull fully onto the shoulder or into a wide area, and turn on your hazard lights.
- Ma Phuc Pass: Drive slowly, stay in your lane and honk at blind bends. Avoid the pass in heavy rain or thick fog.
- At the market: Bring small bills. Ask before taking close-up photos of vendors.
- Help protect the scenery: Don’t litter along the road or near the vermicelli drying areas.
An Lai may not be a famous attraction, but it’s the kind of stop that makes a trip memorable: a picture-perfect winding road, a market where prices are fixed, a fragrant packet of arrowroot vermicelli and a legend about Nung Tri Cao’s kneeling horse. Next time you travel along National Highway 3, slow down in An Lai. Sometimes Cao Bang is at its most beautiful in places you never planned to stop.
