Dong Khe Victory Historical Site – Where the 1950 Border Campaign Began
Along National Highway 4A from Cao Bang to Lang Son, in the small town of Dong Khe, a hill is dotted with reconstructed bunkers, watchtowers and barbed-wire fences. More than 70 years ago, the opening battle of the 1950 Border Campaign was fought here, making national hero La Van Cau famous. A visit to Dong Khe brings you into a proud chapter of Cao Bang’s history.
Where Is the Historical Site?
The site is on National Highway 4A in Dong Khe (formerly Thach An District), about 40–45 km from Cao Bang city center.
It is part of the special national relic site commemorating the 1950 Border Victory, which comprises 19 historical sites grouped into four clusters. The two most notable are the Dong Khe Stronghold Cluster and the cluster dedicated to President Ho Chi Minh and the 1950 Border Victory. On December 25, 2017, the Prime Minister designated the site a special national relic.
54 Hours That Made History
In June 1950, President Ho Chi Minh and the Standing Committee of the Party Central Committee decided to launch the Border Campaign, choosing Cao Bang as its main battlefield. The original plan was to attack the fortress in Cao Bang town. After assessing enemy positions, the Front Party Committee shifted the target to the Dong Khe stronghold.
The battle took place from September 16 to 18, 1950. After 54 hours of fighting, Vietnamese forces completely captured the Dong Khe stronghold. La Van Cau, Tran Cu and Ly Viet Muu were among those whose courage stood out.
The battle was a major turning point. It opened the Border Campaign, was the first successful fortified-position assault, and marked the first campaign-level mobile battle fought by the Vietnam People’s Army. The victory at Dong Khe carried forward the tradition of “winning the first battle” and introduced a new, effective tactic: attacking strongholds and defeating relief forces.
The Story of Hero La Van Cau
Dong Khe is inseparable from La Van Cau. During the battle, his right arm was left on the battlefield forever. Over his military career, he took part in two major campaigns and 25 battles, but the assault on Dong Khe fort was the one he remembered most.
Standing among the reconstructed bunkers makes it easier to imagine the bravery of the soldiers who fought here.
Exploring Dong Khe Stronghold
The French built Dong Khe Fort in the early 1940s on a hill covering more than 40,000 square meters. To bring the battle to life, several features have been reconstructed: the Dong Khe Victory Exhibition Hall, a bunker and watchtower, Bunker No. 1, Bunker No. 2, the barracks, underground tunnels and barbed-wire defenses.
Tip: Start at the exhibition hall to learn how the battle unfolded, then walk around the bunkers and tunnels. The story feels much more vivid when you’re standing where it happened.
Bao Dong Mountain – Where President Ho Chi Minh Watched the Battle
A must-see is Bao Dong Mountain, in Ban Po hamlet, in the former Duc Long Commune. At President Ho’s request, the campaign command took him to an observation post on the summit at dawn on September 16, 1950. Looking west, he could see a deep ravine below and Dong Khe Fort in the distance, where the opening battle was underway.
Today, the Na Lan area is home to the Ho Chi Minh Memorial House and a monument depicting President Ho watching the Battle of Dong Khe from Bao Dong Mountain. The trail to the summit has about 845 stone steps. Once you reach the top, stand beside the statue and look toward Dong Khe to see the same view President Ho saw more than 70 years ago.
When to Visit
The annual commemoration of the Dong Khe Victory takes place from September 16 to 18, with solemn tributes. The dry season, from October to April, is ideal for climbing Bao Dong Mountain.
Visitor Tips
- Help preserve the solemn atmosphere and dress respectfully, especially at the memorial and monument to President Ho.
- Wear walking shoes and bring water if you plan to climb the 845 steps up Bao Dong Mountain.
- Do not climb on the reconstructed bunkers or barbed-wire fences.
- Include a visit on your way to Lang Son or on your return to Cao Bang city.
Dong Khe is a peaceful town today. Yet the bunkers, trenches and statue of President Ho on Bao Dong Mountain still quietly tell the story of those 54 historic hours, when young soldiers won the opening battle of an entire campaign. Stop in Dong Khe to remember that today’s peace came at the cost of blood and sacrifice across generations.
