In Tinh Tuc, amid the towering rocky highlands, lies a vast cave that pilgrims call Hang Dong Chua Ba. This is Chua Then Temple in Cao Bang – the main shrine dedicated to Chua Ba Van Phong, with a long history, deep within the rocky mountain.
Quiet and unassuming, this sacred place keeps its incense burning amid the mountains and forests, waiting for those who feel called to visit. This guide takes you through the whole journey: from spotting the cave along National Highway 34 to following the path uphill and standing before Chua Ba’s altar.
A dragon’s mouth among the highland peaks
The journey begins right on National Highway 34. As you drive through Tinh Tuc, take a moment to look toward the rocky mountain range. From a distance, Hang Dong Chua Ba appears like a dragon’s mouth protruding from the rugged highlands.
Once seen, the sight is hard to forget. The cave entrance seems to point the way, inviting travelers to pause their journey and stop to light a stick of incense.
The climb to the cave: take it one step at a time
You cannot drive all the way to the site. Leave your vehicle by National Highway 34, then take a motorbike taxi or walk about 500 meters along the concrete path.
If you have time, walk. Five hundred meters is just enough to leave the rush of a long journey behind and quiet your mind before entering this place of worship.
At the end of the concrete path, follow the steps up to the cave. Take your time, pausing to rest whenever you need to. For pilgrims, the staircase is part of the journey itself: with every step, you draw closer to Chua Ba.
Inside Hang Dong Chua Ba
Inside is the shrine to Chua Ba. Within the vast rocky cavern, the altars are arranged according to tradition:
- Main shrine: Chua Ba Van Phong.
- Main deities worshipped in the cave: Ba Chua Then of Cao Bang and Van Long Dong Chu.
- The Three Chua Boi: First Chua Boi and Second Chua Boi.
- Also worshipped: Tam Phu – Tu Phu.
Tam Phu – Tu Phu is the familiar Mother Goddess belief system of the Vietnamese people, encompassing realms that govern the sky, earth, rivers and seas, and mountains and forests. The worship of Ba Chua Then alongside Tam Phu – Tu Phu in a cave in the highlands of Cao Bang makes this a special destination for followers of the Mother Goddess tradition and anyone curious about Then beliefs.
The family of shrine keepers
The cave’s shrine keepers are descendants of an elder who received the blessings of Ba Chua Then. The incense burning here is therefore more than the care of a temple; it reflects a family’s bond with Chua Ba, passed down from one generation to the next.
The shrine-keeper family sells offerings inside the cave. You can prepare offerings in advance or buy them when you arrive, so you won’t have to carry a heavy load up the steps.
Chua Then and Then singing among the Tay and Nung
In the Tay language, “Then” means “Heaven.” The Tay and Nung believe that some people are chosen by Heaven—Then men and Then women—who sing and play the tinh lute during rituals to pray for peace for people and their villages.
Then singing was recognized as a national intangible cultural heritage in 2012. In 2019, the Then practices of the Tay, Nung, and Thai peoples in Vietnam were inscribed by UNESCO on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. A visit to Hang Dong Chua Ba is more than a pilgrimage: it offers a glimpse into the beliefs that gave rise to Then songs and tinh lute music, a source of pride for Cao Bang.
Tips for visiting Hang Dong Chua Ba
- Park neatly by the roadside along National Highway 34, then walk or take a motorbike taxi for about 500 meters along the concrete path.
- Wear comfortable shoes for climbing the steps to the cave.
- Prepare offerings in advance or buy them from the shrine-keeper family inside the cave.
- Dress modestly and keep noise to a minimum inside the cave.
- Ask permission before photographing or filming the altars.
- Visit during the day for easier travel along National Highway 34.
A visit to Hang Dong Chua Ba
If you’re interested in exploring spiritual traditions, make time to visit Hang Dong Chua Ba. See the cave that resembles a dragon’s mouth among the rocky peaks, walk the concrete path, climb the steps, and light incense before Chua Ba. Every stage offers an unforgettable experience in Tinh Tuc.
After your visit, you can stop by the Tinh Tuc tin mine, Phia Oac – Phia Den National Park, or continue north along National Highway 34 to Bao Lac.
